Greenfield Orchard

Before You Begin: Learn and Prepare

Keeping bees healthy and productive requires some knowledge and preparation. It’s wise to do a little homework before getting your bees. Start by reaching out to your local beekeeping association – for example, the British Beekeepers Association (BBKA) has area branches across the UK that offer advice and courses. Many local associations run beginner classes or “taster days” (often around 16–20 hours of instruction) to teach you the basics before you invest in equipment. Attending a course will help you understand bee care, seasonal tasks, and safety, and it might even connect you with an experienced mentor for your first year. Learning from seasoned beekeepers can give you confidence and answer the many questions that arise when starting out. In short, prepare by educating yourself – it will make your beekeeping journey much smoother.

Essential Equipment for Beekeeping

To set up a beehive, you’ll need some basic equipment and supplies. Here’s a checklist of the essentials:

• Beehive: A suitable hive box to house the colony (the most common type in the UK is the National Hive, though others like the Langstroth are also used). The hive includes internal frames where bees build their comb.
• Frames with Foundation: Rectangular wooden frames (usually with a wax or plastic foundation sheet) that fit inside the hive for the bees to build honeycomb on. You’ll need enough frames to fill your hive’s brood box (and supers for honey, later).
• Protective Clothing: A beekeeping suit or jacket with veil, plus gloves and ideally wellington boots. A full one-piece bee suit that covers you, including wrists and ankles, is best for beginners. This gear will greatly reduce the chances of stings.
• Smoker: A smoker is a tool that burns fuel (like dried grass, pine needles, or paper) to produce cool smoke. Puffing a little smoke into the hive calms the bees by masking alarm pheromones, making inspections easier.
• Hive Tool: A small pry bar or flat tool for separating hive parts and lifting frames. Bees seal everything with sticky resin (propolis), so a hive tool helps pry open boxes and scrape excess wax or propolis.
• Feeder: A feeder to give the bees supplemental sugar syrup, especially when they are starting out or when natural food is scarce. There are different styles (bucket feeders, frame feeders, etc.), but any container that allows bees to access syrup while being safe from drowning will work.
• Bees: Last but not least, you need your honeybees! Typically new beekeepers start with one nucleus colony (“nuc” – a small starter colony on a few frames) or a package of bees. We’ll discuss how to obtain bees in the next section.

Keep in mind that you can often buy beginner beekeeping kits that include a hive, frames, and basic tools – this can be convenient for first-timers. It’s best to start with new equipment if possible, to avoid the risk of diseases that can linger in second-hand hives. (If you do use used gear, ensure it’s thoroughly cleaned and comes from a disease-free apiary.) Always purchase the best quality you can afford, as it will last longer and perform better.

Choosing a Location for Your Hive

One of the first questions is where to put your beehive. Bees can be kept in many places – from large rural properties to small urban gardens or even rooftops – but careful placement is key for success. Ideally, you have a reasonably sized area with plenty of flowering plants around. In fact, one recommendation is an area of about half an acre (around 2000 m²) with a continuous supply of nectar-rich flowers through spring, summer, and autumn, plus a water source for the bees. Not everyone has that much space, but the point is to ensure your bees won’t go hungry. If you have a smaller garden, you can still keep bees; just be mindful to plant bee-friendly flowers and perhaps coordinate with neighbours so there are gardens or parks nearby for forage.

A beekeeper tending hives in a garden. Choose a good site for your hive that’s sunny, has flowering plants nearby, and is safe for both bees and people.

Hive Placement Tips: Pick a dry, sunny spot for your hive – bees kept in damp shade can become unhappy (and “angry bees” are no fun). It’s ideal if the hive entrance faces a barrier like a hedge or fence; this encourages the bees to fly upward when leaving the hive, so they quickly get above head height. By directing their flight path upward, you reduce the chance of bees bothering people at ground level (like neighbours or passers-by). Also avoid pointing hive entrances directly toward busy areas like a patio, a playground, or a sidewalk, to keep bee traffic away from those spots. If possible, have the hive entrance south or southeast-facing so it catches the morning sun – this helps get the bees active earlier on cool mornings.

It’s wise to put the hive on a stable stand, raising it about 30–50 cm (1–2 feet) off the ground. An elevated hive stays dry, avoids rot, and protects against certain predators or pests (in some regions, creatures like mice, raccoons, or even skunks might bother low hives). Even if those animals aren’t a concern in your area, a comfortable working height will save your back when you inspect the hive!

Don’t forget to provide a water source for your bees. Bees need water not only to drink but also to help cool the hive in hot weather. A simple solution is to set out a shallow container of fresh water (like a birdbath or a tray) with some pebbles or wood pieces in it – this gives the bees a landing spot so they won’t drown. Place it near the hive so the bees learn it’s their local “watering hole.” They prefer water that has natural minerals (even slightly mucky water or rainwater) over very clean distilled water, so don’t worry about it being too pristine. The important thing is accessibility and safety for the bees.

Finally, consider the surroundings and neighbours. Avoid close proximity to property lines if possible, so bees leaving the hive won’t immediately fly through a neighbour’s yard. If your garden is small or not ideal, you might arrange to keep your hive on a friend’s land or an allotment/farm – some landowners are happy to host beehives, especially in exchange for a little honey. (The BBKA even has an “Offer Land to Bees” scheme to connect beekeepers with landowners.) Open communication with neighbours is important – we’ll talk more about that in Safety and Neighbours below.

Getting Your Bees

With your equipment ready and hive set up, it’s time to bring in the bees! There are a few ways to obtain honeybees for a new hive:

• Buy a Nucleus Colony: This is often the best choice for beginners. A nucleus (or “nuc”) is a small starter colony, typically 3–5 frames from an existing hive containing a queen, workers, brood (eggs/larvae), and some food stores. Essentially, it’s a mini-hive that is already functioning. You can acquire nucs from local beekeepers or bee breeders – ask your local beekeeping association for recommendations. A small colony on 3–5 frames is ideal to start with, as it’s easier to manage and will grow with time. In the UK, nucs are often available in late spring or early summer (around June/July) once colonies have built up. Expect to pay on the order of £150–£200 for a good nuc of bees, though prices vary. The advantage of a nuc is that the bees are already on comb and established with a queen, so they generally get going faster.
• Buy a Package of Bees: A package is a ventilated box (often wooden or cardboard with screens) containing a few pounds of loose worker bees (usually around 10,000 individuals) and a separate caged queen. Packages can sometimes be ordered through mail or suppliers (common in some countries). For example, one standard package might be about 3 lbs of bees plus a queen, which is roughly equivalent to those same ~10,000 bees mentioned above. When the package arrives, you have to install the bees into your hive (we’ll explain how below). Packages are less common in the UK compared to nucs, and they require the bees to start from scratch on new comb. However, they are an option if nucs aren’t available. If you do get a package, make sure the bees are from a reputable source to avoid diseases.
• Catch a Swarm: In springtime, bee swarms (a ball of bees clustered in a bush or tree) can be caught and hived. Swarms are usually free – often local beekeepers or swarm collectors will be happy to give you one if you’re prepared to take care of it. However, swarms are not recommended for absolute beginners without guidance. While it’s exciting to catch a wild swarm, their temperament and health are unknown. The swarm could carry pests or diseases, or the queen might be old. If you do go this route, have an experienced beekeeper assist you. Many new beekeepers start with a swarm only after they’ve gained some confidence, or if a mentor is helping them. (On the bright side, a swarm is essentially a free colony – just use caution.)

Whichever method you choose, local bees are preferable. Bees that are adapted to your local climate will generally do better. The BBKA strongly recommends sourcing local bees and discourages importing bees or queens from far away. This helps prevent introducing new pests/diseases and ensures your colony is suited to your weather. So, tap into your local beekeeping network – often a fellow beekeeper can spare a nuc or a swarm when their hives are increasing.

How many bees will you be getting? A healthy new colony can be surprisingly large. For instance, a nuc or package typically contains on the order of 5,000–10,000 bees. It’s normal to receive a shoebox-sized package buzzing with thousands of little workers ready to call your hive home. Don’t worry – once they settle in, those bees will mostly stay around their hive and flowers, and they won’t all be flying at the same time!

One more tip: timing matters. Plan to get your bees at a time when the weather is mild and flowers are blooming (spring or early summer). This gives the colony a chance to build up and gather food before winter. Most suppliers won’t send out bees outside of the appropriate season anyway. If you’re taking a course or have a mentor, they will guide you on the best timing in your area.

Setting Up the Hive and Installing Bees

Now for the exciting part – setting up your hive and introducing the bees to their new home. It’s a good idea to do the installation on a calm, mild day if possible. Have your protective gear on and your smoker lit and ready (even if your bees are gentle, a little smoke can help keep them calm during the transfer). Also prepare your sugar syrup (if you’ll be feeding the bees) ahead of time.

1. Assemble and Place the Hive: If your hive came flat-packed, assemble the boxes and frames according to instructions. Place your hive on its stand in the location you chose earlier. Make sure you have everything: the bottom board (floor), the brood box with frames, an inner cover (if used), and the roof ready to put on top. Have your feeder and syrup nearby as well.
2. Transfer the Bees into the Hive: The method will differ slightly depending on whether you have a nucleus or a package of bees:

• If you have a nucleus colony: Set your nuc box next to the prepared hive. Gently open the nuc (a bit of smoke at the entrance can be used if needed). One by one, lift out each frame from the nuc and place it into the center of your hive’s brood box. Keep the frames in the same order and orientation as they were in the nuc – this preserves the brood nest layout. Be careful to find the queen during this process; ensure she gets into the new hive (usually she will be on one of the frames, just be gentle and do not squish or drop that frame). It’s a good idea to have an extra hive tool or helper to brush any clinging bees from the nuc box into the hive. Once all nuc frames and bees are transferred, fill the remaining space in the brood box with the extra frames you had prepared. Finally, close up the hive with its inner cover and roof. Place the now-empty nuc box on the ground in front of the hive – remaining bees in the nuc will smell their colony and move into the hive shortly on their own.
• If you have a package of bees: Remove a few frames (2–3 frames) from the center of the brood box to create a gap before you begin. (This gives you room to pour the bees in.) Typically, the queen in a package comes in a small separate queen cage – take that out first and keep it aside (more on the queen in a moment). Now, take the package of bees (which is basically a box full of buzzing workers) and spritz the bees lightly with sugar water. The sugar syrup mist coats the bees and helps to calm them (plus gives them something to sip). After a few minutes, you’re ready to pour them in. Turn the package box over above the open hive and give it a firm shake or two. Shake the bees into the hive through the gap you made – you’ll see a big clump of bees fall into the hive. Don’t worry, they won’t all fly; many will cling together and quickly start exploring the frames. You might not get every last bee out, and that’s okay – you can set the package box down near the hive entrance and the stragglers will eventually come out and join the others. Gently replace the frames you removed earlier, sliding them back in slowly to avoid crushing any bees. It’s normal that some bees will be crawling on the frames and box edges; just nudge them softly out of the way as needed.

3. Introduce the Queen: In a nucleus transfer, the queen is already roaming on the frames you moved, so you don’t need to do much – just make sure she ended up in the new hive with her bees. In a package, however, the queen comes in her own little cage because she is new to the worker bees. Take a look at the queen cage: it’s usually a small tube or box with a candy plug sealing the exit. Double-check that the cage has a candy plug (if it has a cork or cap, you’ll replace that with a soft candy like a marshmallow). The idea is to allow a slow release of the queen – the workers will chew through the candy over a day or two, which gives them time to get used to her smell. Remove the cork and insert a marshmallow or candy if needed, to act as a time-delay plug. Then hang or place the queen cage in between two central frames in the brood box (often it can be wedged or attached so it hangs between frame top bars). The workers will cluster around the cage, tending to the queen through the mesh and gradually gnawing the candy. In about 1-3 days, they will free the queen, and because they’ve been exposed to her pheromones during that time, they should accept her as their queen.

Tip: Make sure the cage’s exit hole is not facing downwards (in case the queen were to fall out before climbing onto the comb). Face it sideways or upward between the frames. In a couple of days, you’ll come back to ensure the queen is out and alive (more on that soon).

4. Feed the Bees: A new colony will need some help to get started, especially if there isn’t a heavy natural nectar flow at the moment of hiving. Right after you’ve placed the bees in the hive (and the queen cage is secured), it’s time to give them a sugar syrup feed. Most beginners feed a 1:1 or 2:1 sugar water solution (the ratio can depend on season – 1:1 is common in spring). You can use a jar or feeder filled with syrup. One simple method is an inverted jar or bucket feeder: fill it with syrup and poke a few tiny holes in the lid, then invert it over the hole of the inner cover or above the frames. The vacuum will prevent it from just pouring out, and the bees can sip the drops that come through the holes. Alternatively, use any feeder your system came with. Place the feeder on the hive, following the product’s instructions – some sit over the inner cover hole, some replace a couple of frames inside, and others are external. The key is that the bees have easy access to the syrup. In the first week or two, the bees will use this extra food to start building wax comb and to feed the developing brood. Continue feeding for as long as the bees aggressively take the syrup, and then taper off once they have a good handle on foraging from flowers. If it’s springtime with lots of blooms, they might only need a few weeks of feeding; if the weather is poor or you started late in the season, feeding may be needed longer. (Important: do not add syrup or sugar inside the hive when honey supers are on and you intend to harvest honey – that’s later in the season. For now, when starting, there’s no honey to harvest, so feeding is fine.)
5. Final Assembly and Let Them Settle: After the bees are in and fed, reassemble any remaining hive parts. Put on the inner cover (if you haven’t already) and the hive roof. Ensure everything is secure. At this point, it’s usually best to close up the hive and step back. The bees need some peace and quiet to reorganize themselves in the new home. Plan to leave them largely alone for the next several days – about 3–5 days is a common recommendation. During this time, they will release the queen (if caged) and she’ll start laying eggs if all goes well. The workers will draw out wax on the new frames and begin storing nectar and pollen. It’s hard to resist peeking, but it’s in the bees’ best interest that you not disturb the hive immediately after installation. Let them do their thing. You can observe from outside – you should see bees starting to come out and orient to their new surroundings within a day. Make sure they have access to the feeder and your water source nearby.

After a few days (say, 5 days later), choose a good moment to inspect the hive briefly. This first check is mainly to confirm that the queen has been released from her cage and hopefully located by the colony. Remove the queen cage – if she’s still inside (rare), you might need to manually release her. If she’s out, look on the frames for signs of her: the best sign is finding eggs or young larvae in the cells, which indicate the queen has been laying. You might also try to spot the queen herself, though she can be shy right after installation. If you used a nuc, you’d do a similar first inspection around 1 week after hiving, to ensure the queen is laying in her new home.

Congratulations – you’ve set up your beehive and successfully introduced your bees!